Break in question

hey guys well i only have 175 miles on my 09 camry se v6 and i was wondering till how many miles did i have to wait to take it over 60 mph? i heard you want to break it in easily....also not that im going to but if im ever in a situation like getting on the highway and i have to put the pedal down how many miles do i have to wait till i can do that? thanks

Reply 1 : Break in question

just do it...

Reply 2 : Break in question

Quote:

Originally Posted by nuchieboy hey guys well i only have 175 miles on my 09 camry se v6 and i was wondering till how many miles did i have to wait to take it over 60 mph? i heard you want to break it in easily....also not that im going to but if im ever in a situation like getting on the highway and i have to put the pedal down how many miles do i have to wait till i can do that? thanks

njerald: read the fawking owner's manual !

Reply 3 : Break in question

just go for it! not like it's an old muscle car that's been sitting around for yeards that you have to take it easy for the first few hundred miles...



hammer down!

Reply 4 : Break in question

drive various speeds, but yea just go

Reply 5 : Break in question

alright nice

Reply 6 : Break in question

i had mine over 90 on the first week...

Reply 7 : Break in question

Typically, with these new cars, you don't really have to worry about the traditional break-in periods. I didn't abuse my car until about 2000 mi. just in case though.

Reply 8 : Break in question

Quote:

Originally Posted by XxTrD_ToYoTaxX i had mine over 90 on the first week...

I had mine over 90 on the test drive :-)

Reply 9 : Break in question

i think with these cars the "break in" is a thousand miles.. but who cares, its a brand new car just go for it

Reply 10 : Break in question

Quote:

Originally Posted by white07cam i think with these cars the "break in" is a thousand miles.. but who cares, its a brand new car just go for it

some people do hard break in.. some do soft.. i had a honda EG with the b16 engine rebuilt i just did it... going 180 kph on the first 30 km's..



JUST GO FOR IT!

Reply 11 : Break in question

Break it in hard for power. Most new engines from the factory are broke in before ever being installed in a car. When is the first oil change scheduled?

Reply 12 : Break in question

The owners manual says around 1000 miles I believe, I went pretty easy on it for that much. Basically it is more about the RPM range and heating then about how fast you are going. With any car you get, new or used you always want to wait until the car is warmed up (i.e. the temp gauge is in range of normal operating temperature) before driving it hard. The reason for break-in is mostly for the engine, as your car heats up and cools down the metals expand and contract. If you drive your car really hard at first with out it being "used" to the heat ranges the metals can potentially distort and cause you trouble down the line. This is a big issue with the EVO, many people got that car, drove it like it was stolen off the lot and then about 20 to 30 thousand miles later had blown piston rings and were leaking oil.



So yeah, drive it at 90, 100mph, it doesn't matter, what matters is revving it up and doing constant temperature changes to the engine. Some of the worst things you can do to an engine is drive it really hard for like 10 minutes and shut it off. If driving hard, you always want to warm the car up, drive it hard and then cool it down. (I.E. why when you see races they always have warm up laps and cool down laps (yeah tires also need it too, but it helps the engines as well, well it helps the whole car)).



Just my 2 cents.

Reply 13 : Break in question

...except that race engines are much different beasts (F1 race engines are supposed to last only for the distance of the race....). We are talking Camry...

Reply 14 : Break in question

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tobeit ...except that race engines are much different beasts (F1 race engines are supposed to last only for the distance of the race....). We are talking Camry...

How are race engines different? Yes the tolerances are much tighter and thus break-in affects them more, but it does not mean a regular cars engine can't be affected by break-in.



I don't know how familiar you are with racing engines, but basically you are fighting off heat the whole time in order to maintain reliability and consistent performance, much like a regular car, but at a higher performance level.



All cars, whether race or street have their operating temperatures and operating within these ranges is always a good idea. Again, this is just my opinion.

jchin92's 2008 Camry Intro/Update Thread

Hi, Im Jeffrey i decided to make thread for my Camry ^^. I drive a 2008 Camry LE I4. This car was bought in 2007 i think ill check later. The car was handed down to me August 2010 with about 24,500 miles on it. yeah very low my mom works like 5-10 minutes away from my home and thats all she does no far places lol. Current miles is 26,400 miles. Im located in NorCal Bay Area







My dad hit it with our 95 camry le coming out of the shop -.-





Scrapped at school -.-





Look missing hubcap-.-



this is why you see its scrapped, glad i was installing fog lights in a few days





Interior

Seat covers?



Lighting



Full LED interior (map lights, dome light, glove box, shifter bulb, courtesy door lights, trunk light and license plate)







8000k HID's in low beams





Fog Lights INSTALLED

look s13 right behind me, he was helping me install the fogs





Suspension and Wheels

Stock Alloy Wheel



Audio

MTX Re-q

Crunch PowerZone P1100.2





Alpine Type-R 12"





Future Mods

-JDM Yellow Halogen Fogs then 3000k HID Fogs(when i have money)

-H&R Springs

-17 or 18's Wheels probably from a g35

-Vibrant Exhaust or somthing still researching feel free to add suggestions. im getting a axle back no cat back for me

-LED parking light/turn signal switchback, brake etc...

-License plate relocate

-Possible Repaint and take the dents out

- Any Suggestions just post

Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

Hi guys, here are some 10thgen corolla's retrofit headlights.



What you think?

Reply 1 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

looks nice and clean...what projectors are on those headlights? i plan on getting tsx retrofit when i get my corolla . i had tsx retrofited in my maxima and my previous accord and it's the best

Reply 2 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

They are BMW E46 Projectors, they had high/low beam in the Projectors which is TSX doesn't have. That's why most people ask me use E46 to build it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowincash looks nice and clean...what projectors are on those headlights? i plan on getting tsx retrofit when i get my corolla . i had tsx retrofited in my maxima and my previous accord and it's the best

Reply 3 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

i used the e46 bixenon before as well and i think the tsx has a brighter wider output. but i do like the bixenon function. do you have any pics of the cutoff and output?

Reply 4 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

Very nice!

Reply 5 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

any DIY?

Reply 6 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

Whoa Nick4445, those are some nice retrofits!! I'm in Toronto as well and can you hook me up for the projector retrofit? I really wanted to get mine done!!



I've been looking on eBay for an extra pair of headlight to do retrofitting...but they aren't available yet...



.Eric

Reply 7 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

Sorry, no DIY pictures. I done it as a professional technical.

Reply 8 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

wow already a retrofit ! nicely done !

Reply 9 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick4445 Sorry, no DIY pictures. I done it as a professional technical.

Professional Technical? Uh, does that mean you'll be selling these in the future?

Reply 10 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

Well, maybe in the future. Because i am not sure people like it or not. However, i can help people done it if someone really like it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by teriyaki Professional Technical? Uh, does that mean you'll be selling these in the future?

Reply 11 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

Here is the E46 projectors with high/low beam and the cutline.



Low beam





high beam





Cutline

Reply 12 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

You know what, I'm gonna retrofit my projectors once I can find a pair of 09 'rolla headlight assembly...



So I would appreciate if anyone here knows where to find them, besides from the dealer.



.ERiC

Reply 13 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick4445 Well, maybe in the future. Because i am not sure people like it or not. However, i can help people done it if someone really like it.

I really like how you retrofitted the headlights. I've been trying to retrofit my headlights as well but with TSX projectors on a 07 Corolla. I can't seem to find anyone who does that in Toronto, would you be willing to do it if I paid for your services?

Reply 14 : Corolla HID Projectors MEGATHREAD

i am very very interested if you are gonna sell them...they look awesome!

Key gets locked in ignition

97 4runner



Every now and then, my key will get locked in the ignition. The key works fine for starting and opening the doors.



When I place the truck in park and rotate the key, it will turn half way and power off the engine but will not turn all the way to lock the steering wheel and it can't be removed. I can turn it back to start, shift the gears and turn the wheel but it still won't release the key. I end up having to leave the key in and later after driving it will then operate normally.



Any ideas?

Reply 1 : Key gets locked in ignition

Never mind. I hit it with graphite and it turned. I can assume the cylinder is on it's way out.

Reply 2 : Key gets locked in ignition

I have had that happen to me. I finally got feed up with sitting in the cold, waiting to find the sweet spot for it to turn, and took it to the dealer. I left the key in the ignition and ran inside to talk to someone. The tech there told me I was lucky to bring it in when I did, with the key still in the ignition because if not they would have had to charge me to remove the dashboard to get that cylinder out. It cost around 125 to replace the cylinder. I was willing to pay twice than to be stuck in the parking lot. The only bad thing is that now I have two sets of keys.

Reply 3 : Key gets locked in ignition

I had to replace the tumblers in my 97 4runner 2 weeks ago. I had a locksmith come ... he popped out the ignition and replaced them, fitting them to my current set of keys. $140 cdn. Interesting how both our vehicles, same year/model had the same problem at the same time.

Reply 4 : Key gets locked in ignition

I have the same problem on 4Runner 1996, but i still dont know how to fix it. This problem mostly apears on my 4Runer after washing the car or during rainy days.

Reply 5 : Key gets locked in ignition

It's time to replace those cylinders before you get stuck somewhere.

Reply 6 : Key gets locked in ignition

BfreemanNH hit on a good point by spraying a little graphite in the tumblers, but what I would suggest also is to get a new key cut by CODE, do not trace your existing key. Over time, the key gets worn down from all the use, in many cases a fresh key solves the problem. If this proves unsuccessful, then it is usually time for a new tumbler. As another member pointed out, you can take the NEW lock cylinder to a locksmith and the can recode the new cylinder to the old key. Each region will dictate its own price so shop around.



FYI: I do sell to TN member for 30% off MSRP and I only charge actual shipping costs plust $1.00 - $2.00 for materials, etc.

Reply 7 : Key gets locked in ignition

my key gets stuck in my 97 as well. I found that disconnecting the battery will allow it to turn and release every time. at 240k though it probably is the ignition switch,,huh?

Reply 8 : Key gets locked in ignition

Had the same problem 1996 4 runner.

You can go to the dealership and get a key cut to code, and spray some graphite in all the lock cylinders and move the key to the lock and unlock position a couple of time to get the graphite moving in the cylinders and lube all the parts in the mechanism.

You can get a key cut by a locksmith, but the problem with that is he will cut a key off your old key and if it worn you'll have the same problem.

Or just try graphite and make sure you work the locks in order to lube all the mechanisms.

Best of luck.

Marcus (alln1day)

Reply 9 : Key gets locked in ignition

yah, had a key cut to code, still did it even lubed it with graphite,so buying new switch BUNT!!!

Clear Bumper Signals & Side Markers - Installation

Hey all, I just purchased some clear bumper signal light housings off eBay, as well as some clear side markers. Despite them being illegal in Canada and most States



When I receive them I will post an installation guide with photos and information to help out everyone.



Feel free to post any tips or advice you might have for others or myself - pre installation.



Here's the link to the seller I bought from - ParasiteSingle



Alot of his ads say 1992-1995 but 2nd Gen 4Runners are 90-95 so I took a gamble and bought them anyway. If worse comes to worse I have a Dremel so I might have to do some trimming.

Reply 1 : Clear Bumper Signals & Side Markers - Installation

Just wondering if any of you techies could tell me the Operating voltage range on the side marker bulb sockets. I am trying to buy some LED Wedge base bulbs to replace the stocks.



The two types are:



9~15VDC

9~18VDC



Would either of these work?

clutch issues...

anyone care to give me some insight. Lately whenever my car heats up the clutch pedal gets softer. it seems to go through phases. sometimes it'll get softer. other times it'll be fine and stay firm. the slave and master were recently replaced. the system has been bled countless times. this issue started happening a few months ago and still comes and goes. anyone have any idea what could cause this?

Reply 1 : clutch issues...

It sounds like boiling clutch fluid. Swap it out for some better stuff (RBF600, etc.) and consider putting heat shield/wrap over your slave cylinder and downpipe.



It happens on Subarus and other cars in hot weather too, and it is related to old/dirty boiling clutch fluid, normally.



-Charlie

Reply 2 : clutch issues...

thanks man i guess you're right. cause the fluid is black. also when i'm "runing down the quarter" by the time i'm ready to shift into 4th the pedal practically is dead sometimes. So i guess i'll replace it with better fluid. i'll try the rbf stuff.

Tranny leak

Hi!,



I have discovered a slow leak in the seal between tranny and the block on a 1992 4Runner. Could anyone tell me what i need to do to fix it, or the problem..



What tool would i need to tighten the bolts, if this is the actual problem..



Thanks in advance for your replies, it is apreciated!



Kade

Reply 1 : Tranny leak

Is the leak engine oil?

Manual or auto trans?

and what engine?

Fuel leaking, engine won't start

Greetings! New here. I have a 1994 4Runner with the 3.0 V-6 in it. There is a major fuel leak at the rear of the intake manifold on the passenger side. It appears to be coming from a plug in the rear of the manifold, but I have never seen fuel leaking from a manifold. What other components are back there that would leak a lot of fuel? Seems it would have to be something in the supply line to leak this much. There is no fuel getting to the injectors.

Thanks for any and all help!

Reply 1 : Fuel leaking, engine won't start

jewillm,



Off of the top of my head I would suspect the joint at the rear of the right hand fuel delivery pipe and the #2 fuel pipe that connects to the left and right hand fuel delivery pipes. To fix the leak you may have to remove the intake chamber which sits on top of the engine.

Reply 2 : Fuel leaking, engine won't start

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetwhine jewillm, Off of the top of my head I would suspect the joint at the rear of the right hand fuel delivery pipe and the #2 fuel pipe that connects to the left and right hand fuel delivery pipes. To fix the leak you may have to remove the intake chamber which sits on top of the engine.

Thanks, Jetwhine,

I was afraid of that. Looks like a ton of stuff to remove before even removing the intake. Should keep me busy for awhile.

Thanks for the reply.

Reply 3 : Fuel leaking, engine won't start

jewillm,



The best thing to do is not be in a hurry. Take your time and take lots of pictures. That way if there is a question on how something goes back together you have real life pictures to go by. I do it all the time. That way it gives me plenty of memory bank to think about other things.

Reply 4 : Fuel leaking, engine won't start

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetwhine jewillm, The best thing to do is not be in a hurry. Take your time and take lots of pictures. That way if there is a question on how something goes back together you have real life pictures to go by. I do it all the time. That way it gives me plenty of memory bank to think about other things.

Thank you. I will heed your advice.

AE92 sedan Project...

So i just recently bought a 1991 Toyota Corolla DLX its white with blue interior and its a 4afe efi 5spd.



the day i bought it:

















its a little dirty.... but i cleaned it from head to toe with a power pressure washer...



Before:





After:

Reply 1 : AE92 sedan Project...

Looks good man. The paint appears to be in good shape judging by the pics. Nice job with cleaning the engine bay, certainly looks a lot better than it did before. I bet the sunroof is a handy feature to have . Would be keen to see some interior shots sometime too

Reply 2 : AE92 sedan Project...

So first thing first need to lower the car, the sedan was resting on some KyB grey shocks with stock springs. looking for springs and strut for this car is a easy task if your looking for replacement, but me i want to upgrade lower the car so it wasnt a simple task at all...



I went and did alot of reading and found out thanks to SuperRa, Pancho_Vanilla and Kiwi-Corolla that you could use ae101 struts+springs in the ae92 models. since it was easier to find and obtain ae101(93-97 corolla) on ebay or etc. i went ahead and purchased the DropZone spring+strut for $300 including shipping it has a nice limited-life time warranty on the struts and springs.



Bought the combo Strut+Spring i then went to a local junkyard to get some front AE101 tophats.











they bolted into the car just fine once i got them, in the front i used ae101 tophats on the strut+springs and the rear i used ae101 strut+spring with ae92 stock tophats.



and here is the end product:











here are some pics of the springs+strut took them while they were on the car.



FR



RR



FL



RL

Reply 3 : AE92 sedan Project...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kiwi-Corolla Looks good man. The paint appears to be in good shape judging by the pics. Nice job with cleaning the engine bay, certainly looks a lot better than it did before. I bet the sunroof is a handy feature to have . Would be keen to see some interior shots sometime too

thanks kiwi, and the interior was a nightmare... it smelt like TJ if anyone knows what that means... but yeah it was missing all sort of things like panels door handles and still missing a roof liner, still looking for the right material to redo the interior with, im thinking about black cloth and red stitching(miss my 01 corolla s).



here are some interior shots:





















overall the interior was like a 7/10 due to alot of minor things around the interior was missing, it smelled like burned cat turd and some cigarette holes in rear seats.



but almost all the interior parts i replaced tho, still need a steering rack cover(its broken and all i have was the top piece) and a head liner.

Reply 4 : AE92 sedan Project...

^ Good to hear that the AE101 suspension upgrade went without a hitch! Looks like it was worth the extra bit of effort . Thanks for the interior shots by the way. I'm assuming TJ stands for toe jams?

Reply 5 : AE92 sedan Project...

ATM im still working on the rear disc brake conversion, but once im done ill take some pics and do a write up on it, im still trying to get some questions answered atm, but it all seems ok, ima have to go tomorrow and buy some stuff to drill/dremo strut to make disc hubs fit with both bolts and not just one.



here is a little picture i drew up about the not fitting bolt on hub:







and here is the links ive stated in the ToyotaNation Forums about the AE92 and hopefully these links might be of help to some of you other guys or ladies out there that want some answers too about hte ae92 sedan.



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=354792

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=355066

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...=1#post3314850



oh yeah one more thing, about the speedo cable... it was never broken, it just seemed that it fell off in the middle where the silver knuckle is at, i just but it back together and retightened it and it works, again thank you TN specialist.

Reply 6 : AE92 sedan Project...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kiwi-Corolla ^ Good to hear that the AE101 suspension upgrade went without a hitch! Looks like it was worth the extra bit of effort . Thanks for the interior shots by the way. I'm assuming TJ stands for toe jams?

haha yeas... the car was running like junk too... i had to seafoam it 2xs and redo all the fluids, i am currently running Mobil 1 in the engine, and lucas in the transmission. flushed and put in new coolant, blead all the clutch and brake lines and bleed and put in new PS fluid as well.



also replaced the battery, front trans mount(the old one didnt appear to exist in the car when i bought it) new axles new brakes(ceramic pads) and all the vaccum hoses oh yeah fuel filter and pcv valve. hrm.. i also put in new injector o-rings and a new clutch. its funny because my dad had all thses parts still warranty under the corolla back when we had one back in 95 so i got them all for free basically except mount i had to go to the junk yard buy one for $10 and exchange it for a new one at autozone. also resurfaced the flywheel as well.



im planning on building a 7age or 7agze i dont want to go the 20v route, had a AE86 with it once, didnt like how i always had to readjust the itbs on cold/hot weather and getting replacement parts like waterpump its a hassele unless i want to drill some extra holes in a mr2's... im not hating just wanted a motor that has parts accessable to where im located at in SoCal. who knows maybe turbo too... wells one step at a time, its disc brake modding time, also im a broke person too...

Reply 7 : AE92 sedan Project...

nothing to report today.

Reply 8 : AE92 sedan Project...

Much love for the hatch bro.



Do the dropzone struts have the mounting for the rear sway? Could you post a pic with the car on level ground?

Reply 9 : AE92 sedan Project...

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwint Much love for the hatch bro. Do the dropzone struts have the mounting for the rear sway? Could you post a pic with the car on level ground?

sorry it took so long, was kinda busy today, but i got some pics.

Reply 10 : AE92 sedan Project...

ok so for those people that is interested in seeing the rear brake hub and strut not fitting i have some pics of it now. sorry for the lame drawings, ill redirect everyone that is looking at my other posts to this thread, so ill be condensing.













so in this pic you can see that the orginal holes for a ae92/ae101 is about 4' apart and the ae82 disc hub is about 3' apart so id like to say they are missing about 3/4' then.







i looked at the rear again today, and seeing that im looking at it, i heard that it will start to camber without having a second hole drilled, and etc. while i looked at it, and tryed my hardest to pull and hit it with a rubber mallot, i notice that it wont move... i guess i just didnt realighned the rear rite(tighten bolts while the car was still lifted, needed to tightened when the car is sitting on ground) and so i was wondering do i need that extra hole? the guy at goodyear told me that it doesnt really matter as long as there is no play in there, and there isnt... he just told me to realighned it, thats it not too bad... since it doesnt rock or anything, and the two bottom crossmember bars hold it so it wont ever tuck under since its designed to hold the car steady.

Reply 11 : AE92 sedan Project...

on the write up on the rear disc brake installation the parts you need:



R+L disc hubs

R+L rotors

R+L calipers

Brake soft lines

E-Brake cables



all the bolts are the same as the stock ones on the ae92 i just reused them in the same places.



step one:



jack up the car etc etc. then lets move onto the removal of the exhaust, now on the exhaust removal parts isnt too bad, all you have to do is unbolt the resenator behind the catalytic converter i think it was a 14mm socket and 2 bolts, then unbolt the two bolts from resenator pipe to muffler those were 12mm bolts.











after you do that, you just take out the pipe and set it one the side, then once its removed you have the heat sheild, now rite at the catalytic converter there is a 10mm bolt you unbolt that, then there is 2 more in the middle and so one.



- sorry didnt take any pics of it while i took them off... but ill try my best to visually explain it.



now that after the heat sheild is taken off, there will be 2 bolts holding the e-brake lines in, just unbolt it with a 10mm socket as well, then once you get to where the cables are hooked up to the e-brake there is 2 bolts 10mm pinching in the cables so they dont move, just unbolt it and the cables will come off once you twist and turn it offa the T like mount.



` again sorry no pics here too....



now once all that is offa your going to go to your rear drum hubs, i just cut the hard brake cable since they wouldnt break loose when i was trying to unbolt them outta the hub in the top. once i did that, i drained the fluids into a bucket. there is a top soft brake line, unbolt the hard line out and the new disc brakes will have the soft lines and they will bolt in together.









then now i got onto the unbolting, i left the two that was on the strut on since i didnt want it to fall once i unbolted the subframe bars off, so i got a 17mm socket to unbolt all the 5 bolts on the hub. i started with the three subframe then the 2 on the hub.









once i dropped it out, i just reinstalled it the same way the drums came off, but i decided to mount the bolt on the bottom hole instead of the top hole(since the ae82 and ae92 rear struts are different.) so there isnt any play in the hub rocking back and forth. once you rebolt up the subframe remeber to rebolt it while the car is resting on the ground if not itll look like ur car is major cambering and itll rub major rub ur rear struts and as you drive itll be loud and itll look like ur drifting hard since lots and lots of white smoke will come outta ur rear tires.



once all that is done, its just a simple job of bleeding the brake lines.

Reply 12 : AE92 sedan Project...

Is the rear lower than the front? Nice write up.



I see that the shocks do have the mounting for the stock sway.

Reply 13 : AE92 sedan Project...

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwint Is the rear lower than the front? Nice write up. I see that the shocks do have the mounting for the stock sway.

i believe that the rear only looks lower because it has a bigger wheel well but even at stock height the rear always looks lower, the dropzone ae101 springs+struts lowered the car about 2' in total.



also thanks for the complement, i hope this will at lease help some ppl out in the future, i mean i couldnt find any write up that had pics or anything... i tihnk that the ae92 rear hubs will fit better than the ae82's then, maybe somewhere down the line ill get some ae92 laters atm ima rock these ae82.



one more note, i put in some 5mm wheel spacers in today and the rear doesnt scrap the struts anymore, its just that the lugs dont go to far in now... oh wells ill ride them for awhile and see, wait until i have money for real rims, those are just temporary anyways.

Reply 14 : AE92 sedan Project...

lol you should pop over to New Zealand and give us a hand with this on my sedan lol a box of beers should do it lol. the work experience at toyota hasn't made me good enough to do that to my car yet. professional lowering for me is my only way. nice right up though man